Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Designers Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, Luella, & more
(LONDON) BASSO & BROOKE
From the 1980s flashy past, the boys at Basso & Brooke are turning heads with their spring collection. Inspired by Adlous Huxley's Brave New World, painter Fiona Rae's ironic brands of abstract expressionism, and Italian designer Ettore Stottass's bold-use graphics Bruno Bassion has not completely abandoned his past of eye-popping prints. The spring collection, however, is much more elegant than expected. From shirtdresses and floor dropping gowns and to trench coats and sportswear the collection was magnificent.
Basso and Brooke Spring 2008. © Getty Images
In case you didn't know, parts of Christoper Kane's collection was stolen from the TopShop/New Generation venue literally days before his Sprint 2008 collection was to be shown!! Somehow, Kane managed to pull of a very incredible show. The concepts behind the show were Stephen King and Crocodile Dundee stories that are reminiscent of fluttery camisoles, snake print chiffon trousers, biker jackets, tiered chiffon cream dresses and tons of ruffles which we all know I personally love. There were plenty of "painted-on" looks in the collection as well as sexy looser silhouettes. The season show was a hit and everyone enjoyed their evening.
Christopher Kane Spring 2008. © Getty Images
Like his father, the famed furniture/interior designer Sir Terence Conran, Jasper Conran favors clean, modern lines and pared-down elegance. And, this season, he didn't veer far from the family's time-tested formula. The collection included belted silk twill and jersey frocks, kimono tops that fell off the shoulder, voluminous skirts, and chiffon caftans. A smattering of tribal print gowns and caftans and large bronze jewelry played up the safari theme while the rich palette of navy, burnt orange, nutmeg, and khaki had a slight retro 1970s vibe. The looks were sleek, lovely, and above all, highly wearable.
Jasper Conran Spring 2008. © Getty Images
After Spring 2008, Jonathan Saunders will bid London adieu and will be showing in New York next season, which may seem like the logical next step for this talented Scottish designer. Already he has had good feedback from the other side of the Atlantic and his clothes seem to get better, more sophisticated, modern, and wearable with each collection. Saunders, who wowed the fashion world with his explosive geometric prints, has become an ambassador of modern sophistication. This time his inspiration was Ettore Sottsass-focused entirely on a clean, sophisticated silhouette, which accentuated curves; and color-blocking, using a much more minimalist palette of black, white, yellow, and turquoise. For night, Saunders proved to be a thoroughly modern contender in the style stakes, showing feminine ruffles on skirts, and long columnar gowns in white and black.
Jonathan Saunders Spring 2008. © Getty Images & Fashion Week
Luella's feel was '50s/'60s/punk-rock nerdy chic; a cute mix of quirky contrasts inspired by Thora Birch in the film Ghost World. Models sported square reading glasses or plastic Batman masks, checkered bags and shoes,pink faux-bangs, and even capes.. The Batman logo appeared and reappeared (on a bomber jacket, as a motif on shirts), while Olive Oyl tea dresses and short prom dresses with netting underneath featured quite heavily. Ultra short skirts and dresses were also decorated with Perspex flowers, and the general thought was that one needs to be a superhero or under 25 to wear those supermini pleated pink skirts worn with the grey cardigans.
Luella Spring 2008. © Getty Images & Fashion Week